![]() The ability to recirculate the hot wort back over the grain is extremely useful for clarifying the wort before transferring to the boil kettle. It is also fitted with a sparge ring, connected to the HLT via the flowmeter. The lauter tun is fitted with a filter, used to separate the sweet wort from the grain. Desirable extras include the ability to recirculate for more consistent temperatures, and an inbuilt temperature probe. It should also be fitted with a pump that transports the mash to the lauter tun. ![]() If you plan to use step mashing, you’ll need a mash tun that can be heated. For larger outputs (higher than 200 litres or so), it becomes difficult to mix the mash by hand. There are many types of mash tun, from the most simple open vessels, to enclosed, heated vessels, fitted with stirring paddles. It should be heat resistant and waterproof. The flowmeter is used to accurately measure strike and sparge water. The pump should also allow for recirculation to ensure accurate temperature readings and even mixing of cleaning agents or sparge water additions if you’re using them. It should also be fitted with a pump that connects to the mash tun and sparge set up via a flowmeter, as well as the CIP valves on the rest of your equipment. This will ensure you always have enough liquid for strike water, sparging, and cleaning. So, if you have a 500 litre boil kettle, you should order a 1,000 litre HLT. In terms of size, it should be around double the size of the rest of your brewhouse. Your HLT should have a level indicator for easy calculations. The best models have at least two heating elements or steam jackets, allowing you to start heating with just a small amount of water in the vessel. The HLT stores and heats up your brewing water (known as liquor in British brewing). Suppliers typically list the capacity in terms of weight of malt per hour. Depending on your space, you may need a model that is easily maneuvered. The most common models have 2 rollers, which is adequate for the needs of most small breweries, though some have 3 or more. Look for models that are easily adjustable. ![]() Only necessary if you’re using uncrushed malt. Electrical brewhouses have the elements in-built, and don’t require additional equipment. These come in various sizes and powers, and the best have 2 or 3 elements that can be switched off and on, providing a level of control over the heating. Vessels heated by electricity typically use elements, similar to those found in a common kitchen kettle. Steam tends to offer more control than other heating methods, as the input of steam can be finely adjusted. Steam generators are typically powered by either natural gas, electricity, or diesel. They require a water softening system, which is normally sold with the generator. This simply transforms city water into boiling steam, which is then piped into steam jackets that are fitted on your vessels. Steam heated vessels are fairly common and require a steam generator. The first decision to make is how you will heat your brewing vessels. The brewhouse consists of various heated vessels, with pumps to transport the wort. Most brewery equipment falls into one of these two sections, with a few exceptions. This is where fermentation, conditioning, dry hopping, and everything else that happens as wort becomes beer takes place. The second section is the cellar, also known as the ‘cold side’. This is where the first stage of brewing is completed, from milling to mashing, and boiling to chilling the wort. The first is the brewhouse, also known as the ‘hot side’. The brewery can be split into two major sections. In this guide, we’ll take a look at the essential pieces you’ll need, and discuss the various options where relevant. When it comes to buying the main equipment for your brewery, there are several factors to consider.
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